This Caribbean Island Is Back From the Brink—and Ready To Share Its Treasures With the World

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The paintings of Italian-born artist Agostino Brunias, who made a profession of depicting the island in subdued, stylized settings that covered up the harsh realities of colonial control, were my first visual introduction to Dominica. However, as soon as I step onto its winding roads, which begin to twist shortly after I arrive, it becomes evident that this region, which is situated in the center of the Lesser Antilles’ curve, is anything but tame. The two-toned leaves of its bois canot trees, which change color from green to white when they sway in the wind, shimmer and bristle with the power of the volcano. It lulls with the erratic sound of its numerous waterfalls, scatters rainbows haphazardly across its breathtaking horizons, and enchants from the depths with its vibrant coral reefs. And it roars come storm season.

The indigenous Kalinago people of Dominica survived invasion by the French and British, who imposed slavery on the Africans who now make up four-fifths of the island’s population and left a linguistic legacy of English and French-based Creole, by mastering the lush tropical rainforest that covers more than 60% of the island. If you visit Trinidad for roti and Jamaica for jerk, you should travel to Dominica for green things like bush rum and flower teas. There are a ton of medicinal herbs in the forest.

The Jungle Bay Dominica resort, located smack dab in the center of the Soufrière jungles, leans into nature instead, maybe realizing the futility of fighting against the earth’s generosity. When I finally get there, the kitchen is closed. Joanne Hilaire, the operations manager, tells me that they never let guests go hungry, though, so I can feel the warmth of Dominica’s welcome. The cook is preparing an excellently stewed dish of beans with taro, rice, and plantain for our late dinner, off the menu, while I have a refreshing ginger-lime cocktail that is a local favorite. When I wake up the following morning, I find that my villa’s doors open onto a private veranda that faces southwest toward Soufrière Bay, where the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean converge. I let the light wake me for the remainder of my stay by leaving my blinds open.

A 17-year-old boy, who works part-time at Pizza Hut, arrives and parks a stunning Porsche in front of the house.

Picture this: a 17-year-old boy who works part-time at Pizza Hut pulls up in front of his house one day in a stunning Porsche. His parents are stunned by the sight of the luxurious car and immediately demand an explanation.

“Where did you get that car?” they ask, completely bewildered.

“I bought it today,” calmly responds the teen.

His mom’s concern gets the better of her as she demands, “With what money, young man? We know how much a Porsche costs, and you cannot afford it!”

The boy explains, “Well, it’s used, and I got a good deal. This one only cost me 20 dollars.”

Shocked, his mom exclaims, “Who on earth would sell a car like that for 20 dollars?!”

“The woman up the street,” the boy replies. “I don’t know her name – she just moved in. She ordered a pizza, and when I delivered it to her, she asked me if I wanted to buy a Porsche for 20 dollars.”

Unable to contain their curiosity and anger, the boy’s dad and mom rush over to their new neighbor’s house, ready to demand an explanation. To their surprise, they find their new neighbor calmly planting flowers in her front yard.

Approaching her with determination, the dad speaks up, “I’m the father of the kid you just sold a sports car to for $20. I need an explanation from you!”

The woman, still focused on her gardening, looks up and calmly responds, “Well, this morning, I received a phone call from my husband. I thought he was on a business trip in Florida, but it turns out he has run off to Hawaii with his secretary and has no intention of coming back.”

Perplexed, the mom interjects, “What on earth does that have to do with selling our son a Porsche for $20?”

Smiling brightly, the new neighbor pauses for a moment before answering, “Well, my husband asked me to sell his new Porsche and send him the money. So, I did.”

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